A Blue Zone of long lives
Ikarians reach 90 at about two and a half times the rate of Americans. Herbal teas, a mostly plant-based diet, steep daily walks and strong community are the usual explanations.
Ικαρία · The island where people forget to die
Ikaria, where time slows down and nobody minds
Wild beaches, warm springs and village feasts that dance until sunrise, on the Blue Zone island where nobody has looked at a clock in years.
Greetings from Ikaria
Nas, Ikaria
Nobody here wears a watch. Lunch started at two and it's nearly six. This morning I swam in the cove where the river runs into the sea, below the ruins of a temple to Artemis, then slept like a child. Tonight there's a panigyri in the next village: goat stew, red wine, and the whole island dancing in a circle until the sun comes up. I may never leave.
Hour by hour
A perfect day on Ikaria
There is no rush on the wild north-west coast. Here is how a day unfolds, and where to stay and eat along the way.
- 09:00
A swim where the river meets the sea
Walk down past the stones of the Temple of Artemis to the pebble cove at Nas. Fresh water from the Chalaris gorge on one side, the open Aegean on the other.
- 11:30
Into the oak forest
Drive up through the trees to the Monastery of Theoktisti and the tiny chapel hidden beneath a boulder. Bring water and no plans.
- 14:00
Lunch under the trees
Goat with rosemary, wild greens, a jug of Ikarian red, and a village square that empties only when the heat does.
- 17:30
Siesta, then the long beach
Sleep it off the Ikarian way, then wander down to Livadi or Messakti when the sand is gold and the crowds have gone.
- 20:30
Fish and the sunset over Nas
Take a table above the bay, order what came in that morning, and watch the sky go through every colour it has.
- 23:30
The village that wakes up at night
In Christos Raches the shops and kafeneia open late and stay open later. In summer, follow the music to a panigyri and join the circle.
Where to stay
Where you'll wake up on Ikaria
Armenistis
Step out of your room and onto Livadi beach
Erofili Beach Hotel · Beach hotel · €€
Nas
Home cooking in the village where the river meets the sea
Thea's Inn · B&B · €€
Therma
Soak in the hot springs, then sleep by the sea
Agriolykos Pension · Pension · €
Only in Ikaria
The things you'll tell everyone about
The things that make Ikaria unlike any other Greek island.
Panigyria that last till dawn
Summer saints' days are celebrated with village-wide feasts of goat stew, wine and the fast, circling Ikariotikos dance. Everyone is welcome, and the music rarely stops before sunrise.
A village that wakes at night
In Christos Raches shops and kafeneia traditionally open in the evening and stay busy past midnight, a habit dating back to the island's pirate-wary past.
Radioactive hot springs
The mineral springs at Therma have drawn bathers since antiquity and still feed the municipal spa and natural rock pools by the sea.
Towns & villages
Where you'll fall for Ikaria
01
Raches
Christos Raches
The village that keeps night hours
Ikaria's best-known mountain village sits high above the north coast among pine and oak. Its central square comes alive after dark, when shops, bakeries and kafeneia open their doors and locals gather until the small hours.
- Evening market life
- Local honey, herbs and wine
- Trails into the Ranti forest
02
Raches
Armenistis
Fishing village above golden beaches
A cluster of white houses tumbling down to a small harbour. Long sandy beaches at Livadi and Messakti sit just east of the village, so Armenistis is the island's liveliest summer base.
- Livadi and Messakti beaches
- Sunset over the Aegean
- Easy walk to Nas
Things to do
Moments to collect
Festival
Join a summer panigyri
Look for posters announcing a saint's-day feast. Pay a small fee for food and wine, which funds the village, then dance the Ikariotikos until dawn. 15 August is the biggest night.
Villages island-wide, July–September
Beach
Hike down to Seychelles beach
A short, steep path from the road ends at a cove of white boulders and clear turquoise water. Bring shoes, water and shade; there are no facilities.
Near Manganitis, south coast
Hike
Walk the Chalaris gorge from Nas
Follow the river inland from the beach at Nas past rock pools and plane trees to a small lake. Easy to moderate, and best in late spring when the water runs.
Nas, north-west coast
Good to know
Before you fall for Ikaria
Ikaria is famous for how long its people live. Researchers named it one of the world's five Blue Zones, crediting a diet of beans, greens, herbs and local wine, daily walking on steep hills, afternoon naps and a close-knit social life. Come for the wild north-coast beaches and summer panigyria, and stay for the pace.
- Area
- 255 km²
- Population
- ≈ 8,300
- Highest peak
- 1,037 m
- Blue Zone
- 1 in 3 reach 90
- Slow travel
- Wild beaches
- Village festivals
- Hiking
When to go
June to September for beaches and panigyria; May and October for hiking. The meltemi wind can be strong in August.
Getting around
Rent a car or scooter: buses are infrequent and the roads are steep and winding. Allow extra time for every drive.
How long
Five days minimum. A week lets you settle into the Ikarian rhythm, which is the whole point.
Getting there
Ferries from Piraeus (about 7–10 hours) and Samos, or a short flight from Athens to the airport near Faros.
Flights & ferries
Ikaria through the ages
Named for the boy who flew too close to the sun, this island has been a sacred site, a pirate refuge, a short-lived free state and a place of exile.
Walk through the story